The Vietnamese “Ao Dai” is a long gown, traditionally donned by women, paired with trousers. This piece has become the symbol of Vietnamese feminine beauty and the people’s pride. This all began when Miss International Pageant in Tokyo awarded its Best National Costume award to the Vietnamese representative Truong Quynh Mai. The Ao Dai has been a long-time source of inspiration for artists and poets and thus contributed significantly to Vietnamese arts and literature.
The Ao Dai originated as the costume worn by courtiers under the reign of the southern Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat, who wanted to establish an independent identity of his northern rivals – the Trinh lords – thus birthing the Ao Dai. The garment is inspired by the style of clothing worn by the land’s original inhabitants – Cham – whose country of Champa had been invaded by the Vietnamese. Therefore, the Ao Dai was Lord Nguyen’s way of showing respect for the Cham culture and garnering their support.
The original Ao Dai was far from aesthetic – it was plain, loose-fitted, and rather unflattering for those who donned it. In fact, it was not until the 1930’s that a group of french-trained artists combined the design of the Ao Ngu Than (a five-panel gown) with borrowed features from the Ao Thu Than and french designs, transforming the Ao Dai from plainness to sensationalism.
Today, there are many variations, designs, and styles of the Ao Dai that are donned, not only in Vietnam but across the world – thanks to globalisation and the integration of cultures.
